Mold often starts when warm, humid indoor air meets a cold surface and condenses. Spray foam forms a continuous air seal that keeps humid air away from cold framing, and closed-cell foam also blocks liquid water.

Both. We spray open framing in attics, additions, and unfinished basements, and many finished walls can be filled through small entry holes instead of tearing out drywall or plaster. An inspection shows which method fits your home.

ENERGY STAR estimates homeowners save an average of 15% on heating and cooling by air sealing and insulating attics, floors over crawl spaces, and accessible basement areas. Real savings depend on how leaky the home was beforehand.

Yes, for a limited time. People and pets should stay out of the home during spraying and for the re-entry period the foam manufacturer specifies, which varies by product. We explain that timeline before your installation day begins.

Clear stored boxes and belongings away from the work area, move vehicles if we are working in the garage, and make sure we can reach the attic or basement easily. Our crew covers and protects the surfaces that remain.

Watch for rooms that never reach the thermostat setting, drafts near outlets and baseboards, icicles along the gutters, and heating bills that climb every winter. TrueFoam LLC offers free quotes in Pittsburgh, PA, to pinpoint where energy escapes.

It depends on what sits in your attic. If ductwork or a furnace lives there, foaming the roof deck brings that equipment inside the conditioned space. If the attic is empty, sealing the floor usually costs less.

Not when it is designed correctly. An unvented, foamed roof keeps humid indoor air away from cold sheathing, which is what causes rot. Problems arise from roof leaks or wrong foam thickness, so we check both first.

It can. Some shingle manufacturers limit or change warranty terms on unvented roof assemblies. Check your shingle warranty before choosing roof deck foam, and we can explain the alternatives if your manufacturer restricts it.

Closed-cell foam rates roughly R-6 to R-7 per inch and open-cell about R-3.5 to R-3.8, while fiberglass and cellulose fall near R-3 to R-4. The bigger difference is that foam also stops air leakage.

Possibly. Very airtight homes may need mechanical ventilation, such as a bath fan on a timer or an energy recovery ventilator, to keep fresh air moving. We flag this so you can review it with your HVAC contractor.

A thermal barrier, usually half-inch drywall, protects foam in living spaces from fire. An ignition barrier is a lighter covering allowed in attics and crawl spaces entered only for service. Codes decide which your space needs.

Yes, with care. Foam manufacturers set minimum surface and air temperatures for proper curing, so TreuFoam LLC checks conditions on site in Pittsburgh, PA, and may warm the space or adjust timing before spraying.

Not directly against them. Chimneys and flues need clearance and noncombustible fire-rated sealing, and older recessed lights not rated for insulation contact need covers or replacement. We plan those details before foam goes on.

Foam on a roof deck can make small leaks harder to spot, so roofs should be sound before spraying. Electricians can still cut through cured foam to run new wiring, and the area can be patched afterward.